When you visit a new country on a short trip, it is challenging to pick a few and skip other places of interest. But having one unscheduled day amidst pre-programmed days is a luxury not to be wasted. One such day I had while recently visiting Tokyo turned out to be well-spent soaking up Japanese theater culture.
While searching for things to do in Tokyo’s shopping hub Ginza, where glitzy high-end brand stores meet old buildings, there was a mention of one must-see place—Kabukiza. Ignorance can sometimes be bliss but also an opportunity to learn something new. I set out to learn more about it. Since it was first built in 1889, the Kabukiza Theatre has continuously staged not only the most refined of classics, but also new kabuki productions reflecting each new epoch.
'kabuki' is one of Japan's great performing arts that includes song, dance and drama staged in elaborate costumes. This historical theater has roots that are 400 years, wherein all-male theater showcases vast repertoire ranging from classics, folktales to new theatrical experiments.
Landing at Kabukiza in Ginza district of Tokyo on a cold but sunny afternoon, I along with a friend enquired about the shows of the day. A staff person told us that the best dance drama was the morning one. But of course, we were too late for that. He suggested we see the next best one with two plays, one classic and one modern with an intermission separating them. And he also suggested we get the cheap and best seats. Boy, we did not anticipate what that meant.
After roaming around the cute little stores and grabbing some lunch we headed to the theater. As soon as we sat down in our seats, we heard our knees scream. There was absolutely no room for our knees. I had to catch a theater staff lady and almost wailed to her. Since we weren’t told about the very un-American nature of the seats, she apologized and led us to a different section where our legs heaved a sigh of relief. I was surprised to see that no one else was complaining.
The drama that began had my unwavering attention, now that I was comfortably seated. I was desperate to click a picture of the beautiful costumes that the actors were donning in 'Soga Brothers in the Lucky Direction,' if not for the very stern lady who was watching us all with a thousand eyes sitting face-to-face. During a period of brief pause, one of us switched on the phone and got a strict warning to shut it down. It looked like no one in Japan breaks rules. Even the intermission was supposed to be quiet, where people sat in the designated area and ate their food in another area, both in silence. Of course someone held up a sign reminding us to zip our lips under the masks. I couldn’t help imagining if that rule were to be imposed in the US. It was very hard to control my laughter at the thought. I giggled, but quietly!
The second play 'The Case of the Greedy Seizaemon' was an adaptation of an English play. This 'New Kabuki' play written by Kawatake Mokuami in 1879, belongs to the genre of works called 'zangirimono' (cropped-hair plays). It depicts the new lifestyle and manners of the Meiji period and was adapted from the comedy “Money” by the English playwright Bulwer-Lytton. Thanks to the storyline provided at the ticket counter, following the story wasn’t an issue. The actors delivering their dialogues in Japanese effortlessly sitting on their knees had me awestruck for more reasons than one.
Exiting the beautiful Kabukiza theater, I marveled at the numerous stories in the Japanese theater repertoire. Getting a sneak peek into a couple of them has been an unforgettable experience.
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